2020年1月投稿
posted Jan. 2020
*1
Meaning
It was about 20 years ago, either toward the end of Meiji Period or the start of Taisho, when I spent some time in Yoshino, Yamato District. I cannot remember what urged me to visit such a remote place deep into mountains when unlike now the transport services were so poor. The area is indeed so remote that these days it is referred to the ‘Yamato Alps’ district.
Jyunichiro Tanizaki, “Yoshinokuzu”/1930
『吉野葛』は、このような書き出しで始まります。書き上げられたのは昭和五（1930）年、作者が四十五歳の時ですが、足かけ三年の作品であるといいます*2中公文庫版『吉野葛』解説では、「『吉野葛』には谷崎に関わる現実のどのような女性も一切投影されていない。彼の全作品中、実に珍しい作品なのである」と評されています*3。谷崎潤一郎を吉野へ向かわせたものは、いったい何なのでしょうか。
Tanizaki’s novel “Yoshinokuzu” starts like this. He wrote it in 1930 when he was 45 years old. It was said that Tanizaki spent 3 years to complete it. A commentator for Chuko Bunko version of Yoshinokuzu points out that this work is not like other Tanizaki’s novels as no female figure he had associated with appears to play a role. If so then, what was it that took Tanizaki all the way to Yoshino and prompt him to produce “Yoshinokuzu”?
『吉野葛』では、作中の「私」が「例の小説の資料を採訪すべく、五六日の予定で更に深く吉野川の源流地方を究めて来る」として、五日間にわたる旅程が記されています。
In the work “Yoshinokuzu” I, watashi, go on a five-day trip and its itinerary is detailed. Watashi departs saying, ‘I’m going to explore the Yoshino riverhead area for 5-6 days. Hope to collect material for the novel’.
The itinerary is as follows:
Meaning
on the first day leave Kuzu, stop and pay respect at the grave of Oguranomiya, the son of Emperor Go-Kameyama, proceed to Kawakami via Gosha Tohge, reach Kashiwagi and stay overnight; on the second day, through Obagamine Tohge stay at Kawai in Kitayama; on the third day visit Ryusenji Temple in Kotochi and the grave for Kitayamanomiya, climb Mt. Ohdaigahara and stay there ; on the fourth day explore Sannoko Valley via Goshiki Onsen and if possible through Hachiman Daira and Kakushi Daira to a loggers’ hut for the night or to Shionoha; and on the fifth day from Shionoha return to Kashiwagi and to Kuzu within the day or next day.
「例の小説」とは、「やや材料負けの形でとうとう書けずにしま」いましたが、次のことを題材として計画した歴史小説のことです。
The referred novel was a historical one. Watashi had to leave it ‘unfinished because there was far too much material to justify a story’. He had its outline laid out as
Meaning
the Southern Dynasty – Yoshino with blossoms – mystic deep valley –young Jitenno mere 18 years old– Jiro Masahide Kusunoki – hidden Imperial Regalia kept deep inside a cave – Jitenno’s head spitting blood in snow.
五日間の旅程には、川上村と上北山村を中心とした後南朝ゆかりの地が列挙され、作中の「私」、ひいては、作者である谷崎潤一郎が、川上村・上北山村に秘められた後南朝の歴史に強く惹かれていたことが窺えます。
Included in his 5-day itinerary are many places around Kawakami and Kamikitayama villages which are associated with the Southern Dynasty. This implies that watashi and in fact Tanizaki himself had a strong interest in the dynasty’s history and the areas.
作中における「朝拝式」*4の記述は実に細やかです。作品は六章から成りますが、その書き出しの一章分を用いて、自天王*5の悲劇の歴史が記されています。作中では、次のように記されています。
The description of ‘Chohaishiki’ (morning worship ceremony) is thorough. The novel has 6 chapters and the whole of the first chapter is used to detail the tragedy of Jitenno in relation with Chohaishiki. Found in the book are sentences like:
Meaning
There is a legend about the descendants of a southern imperial figure known with the name “Nancho-sama” or “Jitenno-sama”.
Meaning
There are many distinguished families with reference to “sujime no mono ”, the descendants of gohshi who were loyal to the Southern Dynasty. People in the Kashiwagi district to this day conduct a ceremony to worship Nancho-sama in Kongohji Temple on the 5th of February every year. The temple is located in Kohnotani where the dynasty’s palace once was.
その表現や川上村郷士へのまなざしから、作中の「私」が、自天王や自天王を護った郷士に対して尊敬の念を抱いていることが窺えます。
There seem enough to guess that watashi in the novel respects Prince Jitenno and the gohshi people who protected the prince.
自天皇は長禄元（1457）年十二月二日、大雪に乗じて襲撃した赤松家の遺臣に討たれたといわれています。しんしんと冷える日には、雪の奥吉野に逃れた後南朝の皇子たちを思い出さずにはいられません。
ぜひ、冬の川上村・上北山村へ、後南朝のロマンを体感しにお越しください。なお、川上村の積雪状況は、「桜ライブキャストAnnex」（井氷鹿地区）および「桜ライブキャスト たくみのむら」（東川地区）にてご確認いただけます*6。
Jitenno was said to be killed by the men of Akamatsu Family on December 2 in 1457. It was a cold day with heavy snow. On similar cold days I cannot but think of Jitenno and other princes who fled to Okuyoshino and had unfortunate endings there.
Please come and share such feelings in Kawakami and Kamikitayama villages this winter. You can check the level of snow on ‘Sakura Live Cast Annex’ (Ihika District) and ‘Sakura Live Cast Takuminomura’ (Unogawa District).
ここからは、『吉野葛』で「私」が訪問を計画していた場所をいくつか、写真とともにご紹介したいと思います。
From here on I would like to introduce places with photos that the main character watashi is planning to visit in “Yoshinokuzu”.
自天王（北山宮）は、滝川寺（現上北山村）を北山御所とし、神器を奉じて後南朝の復興を図ったものの、長禄元（1457）年十二月二日、赤松の残党に襲われ討死したといわれています。南朝の皇胤北山宮、河野宮（忠義王）について系譜などは明らかにされていません。「北山宮」は、長禄の変後、北山宮を追慕する遺臣や地方民が御座所を精舎と称し、当地に祠を造営して栃本神社または若一王子社として祀ったのに始まるといわれています*7。
Jitenno, also known as Kitayamanomiya, held his palace Kitayama Gosho in Ryusenji Temple (currently in Kamikitayama Village) and tried to reestablish Go-Nancho Dynasty , but as noted above got killed by some Akamatsu men on February 2 in 1457. No family detail has been found for him and his brother Kounonomiya (or Chugiou), both descendents of the nancho, Southern Dynasty.
Kitayamanomiya Shrine is said to have been established as Tochimotojinjya Shrine or Nyakuichioujisha Shrine with the efforts of his men who survived Chouroku Battle and his local followers.
滝川寺は、かつての自天王（北山宮）の座所と伝えられ、霊廟とされています。また、寺内には自天王（北山宮）墓もあり、今も多くの方に偲ばれています*8。
Ryusenji Temple is regarded as Jitenno’s mausoleum. His tomb is placed inside the temple and people still come and offer prayers there.
「五色温泉」は、川上村入之波地区から大台ケ原に向かう登山道の途中にあり、現在も温泉が湧いているといわれています。江戸時代には湯治場として賑わっていたそうです。
入之波から五色湯へ向かう直前に見えてくる滝は「屏風滝」。岩壁の広がる様子が屏風のように見えることから名付けられています。岩壁には滝の上流から湧き出す温泉（五色湯）の湯の花も確認できます。
「入の波」では現在も「入之波温泉 山鳩湯」にて温泉を楽しむことができます*9。
Goshiki Onsen is located on the way from Shionoha to Mt. Ohdaigahara. During the Edo period this place was popular as a hot spring. Hot water still runs but it is no longer used for bathing.
Instead ‘Shionoha Onsen Yamabatoyu’ is available for those who wish to enjoy a hot spa. There is Byoubutaki Fall on the way. The name comes from the fact that the fall’s rock walls look like a byoubu, folding screen. On its rock walls yunohana, onsen deposits, can be seen.
『吉野葛』作中の「私」は、入之波よりさらに奥の「三の公」*10で後南朝ゆかりの皇子たちを偲び、「入の波」へ戻る計画を立てています。
Watashi in “Yoshinokuzu” had a plan to visit Sannoko to offer prayers to the dead princes and back to Shionoha
「柏木」は山上ヶ岳や大普賢岳への登山口にあたり、古くより多くの修験者で賑わっていた地区です。現在では、「吉野建」と呼ばれる様式をもちいた建築を見ることができます*11。
Kashiwagi is a district at the start of a path to Mt. Sanjyogadake and Mt. Daifugendake. Many Buddhist monks in training went through the district in the past. An architectural style called Yoshinodate can still be spotted here.
これから川上村と上北山村は静かな冬を迎えます。静寂に包まれた森の中を雪が舞い、夜には星が瞬く、とても美しい季節です。来る２月５日には、南朝の皇子たちを偲ぶ人々が集まり、朝拝式が厳かに行われます。長禄三（1459）年から川上村で大切に守り伝えられてきた、祈りの儀式です。
Kawakami Village and Kamikitayama Village are now welcoming winter with snow in the forests and stars twinkling in clear night sky. It is a beautiful season there indeed.
On the 5th of February the Chouhaishiki ceremony will be held with due solemnity to remember the princes of the Southern Dynasty. The ceremony has been protected and passed on by the villagers in Kawakami since 1459.
竹中雅幸氏（ちくちゅー登山ガイドサービス）には、「五色湯」周辺の現地踏査時にお力添えを賜り、その歴史についてもご教示をいただいた。また、本記事掲載「屏風滝」の写真もご提供いただいた。記して深謝したい。